As we prepare to
leave Canada, we are of couple of miles from the town of De Tours, Michigan and about
40 miles from Mackinac Island, Michigan, our destination for tomorrow.
Lakes Ontario, Huron, and Michigan are vast bodies
of water and other than the spray being fresh water, it is hard when
sailing on them, to distinguish them from the oceans where we have been.
Sept. 5th,
we left the anchorage at St.
Joseph Is. in Ontario. It is an early Sunday morning as we made our way to Mackinac
Island, Michigan. All we had to do was call US Customs and give them our
info over the phone and that was that. They didn’t even ask if we had
anything to declare. Mackinac Is. was quite scenic with no autos allowed
on the island. Horse drawn carriages and bicycles were the only mode of
transportation. It was very busy with tourists and charter boats
arriving and leaving frequently. We found a couple of good restaurants,
and many fudge and candy stores to avoid. There were beautiful flowers
everywhere and a picturesque white stone Fort up on a hill. That night
as we were just about to fall asleep we heard a trumpeter play Taps. It
was quite a nice cozy feeling to hear that as we drifted back to sleep.
We stayed 2 nites on the Island, then headed down the west coast of
Michigan on the Lake.
The state of Michigan operates many marinas and
what they call Harbors of Refuge along the western shore. This provides
quick shelter if the weather changes suddenly, which apparently is often
the case. The harbors are rather interesting in their configuration. The
ones we visited were all man-made cuts from the Lake through a short
stretch of beach consisting of sand dunes to a natural lake on the other
side, and a small town. All the harbor entrances from the Lake had short
breakwaters on each side of the channel, a Coast Guard station and a
small Lighthouse. Since the weather was warm, sunny, and breezy we saw
many people on the beaches as we entered the channel, as well a number
of wind surfers and kite boarders, and small boats actually beached on
the shoreline.
Our first anchorage was off the town of Charlevoix,
which turned out to be the most picturesque that we visited.
We had not planned to go into town, but just as we were to leave the next morning.
Well, the best laid plans of boaters……… As we were headed out of the
channel back to the Lake we had to wait for a bridge to open, and in the
process of hovering the starboard engine lost power. Does this sound
all too familiar? Well, needless to say we had an unscheduled 7 days in Charlesvoix Marina. At first we thought it was the whole transmission,
but luckily it turned out to be a coupling that we had to have replaced.
Les
frequented the WiFi Internet cafes with his laptop and I went in every
single shop in town, and got a pedicure one day.
We read every piece of literature printed about
Charlevoix and are now knowledgeable about every festival all year round…in
case anyone wants to know. The petunia planting festival was just before
we arrived and every street is lined with the colorful flowers. I
imagine it would be quite beautiful in the wintertime with the gorgeous
trees and houses and churches overlooking the harbor and lake all
covered with snow.
Sept. 14th we left Charlevoix and found
a good spot to drop the hook for the nite in a bay named Good Harbor, no
town or harbor there. The next two days we anchored off the town of
Frankfort and just stayed aboard to wait for the winds to die down
before returning to the big Lake. In Ludington we fueled up with about
500 gals, at the tune of 1.92/gal, the cheapest diesel around, stayed at
a free dock for 2 hours and walked into town for dinner, and then went
to anchor out for the nite. The next day we anchored off Muskegon,
and then just off St. Joseph.
Les’ birthday, Sept. 21st, we crossed
the bottom end of Lake Michigan from St. Joseph to Chicago. It started
out a bit bumpy, but calmed down after a couple of hours and we had a
nice crossing. I was able to hang out clothes and get a few chores and
meals fixed without too much difficulty. I still love washing clothes by
hand and hanging them out to dry, go figure. It’s kind of a Zen thing,
wax on, wax off. They dry quickly on a breezy day.
Chicago became visible when I was on watch. It
looked like a bar graph off in the haze miles out from shore. As we
approached, the skyline was gorgeous as it was the clear sunny weather. We
pulled into Burnam Park Harbor Marina around 3:30 pm, checked in and
then took a cab ride into town. I took Les out for a birthday dinner and
we toured the beautiful new park named Millennium Park. It had an outdoor
concert arena in the grass, shops and restaurants, a huge bean shaped
sculpture reflecting the sky and buildings of Chicago off the tiny
silver mirrored finish which you could walk under and touch, and an
unusual fountain made up of two large tiled rectangular pillars facing
each other about 200 feet apart. The pillars had a thin layer of water
streaming off of them into a shallow 1/8th in. pool. On the
sides of the pillars that faced each other, there were two projected
images of faces of Chicago residents. The two faces smiled, blinked, and
generally just looked straight ahead at each other. Then one would begin
to purse its lips and a stream of water would shoot out of its mouth
area. We discovered that it wasn’t that far back to the boat, so we
walked back and enjoyed the balmy twilight, more beautiful parks and the
spectacular nitetime skyline of Chicago.
I can’t say enough about Chicago. What a great
city! The weather was perfect, about 75 degrees, sunny, clear, a little
breeze off the pretty green Lake. The skyline, day or nite, was
spectacular from our vantage point in the harbor. The architecture is a
great blend of old and new, and the building balance of shapes is
perfect. There are many grand old hotels and other public buildings made
with brick, limestone, or terra cotta, all very ornate. Some buildings
have the street name elaborately carved onto the sidewall. Many of the
newer high-rises are mirror finished in a variety of geometrically
angled and rounded shapes. The effect is very pleasing to the eye. Then
there are the parks, with beautiful flowers, fountains, and many paths
for bike riding and walking around the city and along the waterfront.
The transportation system is also excellent
with busses and trains running frequently and inexpensively to all
destinations in and around the city. And I couldn’t get over how clean
it was, not a scrap of paper on the sidewalks! The day we took our usual
trolley tour, which we try to do in all big cities, we learned that the
streets and sidewalks are swept daily. No wonder everything is so clean!
We were in Chicago for a total of 4 days, but I,
for once, could have stayed a week or more.
Sept. 25th,
we left Chicago and got another view of the city as we passed thru the
heart of town on the Chicago River. It was another beautiful sight
looking up at all the buildings and going under the 35 (yes, 35)
bridges in the city. The one with the lowest clearance was 17 feet, but
with our mast and antennae down we squeaked thru.
Next,
the trip down the Rivers, Illinois, Mississippi, Ohio, Cumberland,
Tennessee, and Tombigbee, to Mobile, Alabama...

Bridges over the Chicago River

The Center of Chicago

35 Bridges!
